Buchu

Sharing benefits with South Africa’s traditional knowledge holders

Buchu (Agathosma betulina) is a small flowering shrub endemic to the Western Cape of South Africa. Its leaves with a peppermint-like odor and its essential oil is now used in food, cosmetics and pharmaceuticals. For centuries, the Khoi and San indigenous peoples have known its properties and used it for stomach ailments, as an antiseptic and mixed with animal fat for cosmetic applications. Buchu is so important that the Khoi and San peoples call it the ‘holy plant.’

 Rules on biodiversity in South Africa, based on international agreements such as the Nagoya Protocol, ensure that the rights of indigenous peoples over their traditional knowledge is respected. Companies using native biological resources such as Buchu in research, product development and commercialisation need permits, as well as benefit sharing agreements. Additionally, local rules and policies promote cultivation, in order to avoid potential negative impacts of harvesting on wild populations. Buchu is an important source of local income for people in the region. The plant thrives in dry conditions and can be cultivated on hills where other crops do not do as well.

UEBT member Provital, based in Barcelona, is a company that develops natural active ingredients and botanical extracts for the cosmetics industry.  A few years ago, the company was looking to develop a new cosmetic ingredient that could be used as a pore refining agent, improving skin appearance. Through literature review, Provital learned about the properties of Buchu and began to take actions in line with national rules on access and benefit sharing (ABS), as well as with their own ethical sourcing commitments. 

Some of the initial steps involved consulting with the Khoi and San peoples with the support of local partners, and establishing a benefit-sharing agreement through which traditional knowledge holders would benefit from the sales of Buchu. Its supplier also reached its own benefit sharing agreement with the traditional knowledge holders.  As part of these agreements, the companies acknowledge the San and the Khoi peoples as the lawful first inhabitants of South Africa and their traditional knowledge associated to the Buchu plant. Based on agreements and consultations, Provital secured the required ABS permits from the South African Department of Environment, Forestry and Fisheries.

Today, Provital uses Buchu in an innovative natural active ingredient called ‘Affipore,’ used in various cosmetics products. In line with its philosophy of sourcing with respect for nature and people, it works with its supplier to cultivate Buchu using organic practices, pay fair prices to producers, and integrate biodiversity practices.  It also is engaged in ABS agreements in other countries for others of its ingredients.